Paulo Tullio/ Irish Independant
Stoop Your Head is on Skerries Bay, on Harbour Road, and affords a fine view over the bay and the fishing boats that were moored at the harbour wall. Small yachts bobbed in the water and I was thinking to myself that if there was a splash of sun, this could have been any small Mediterranean port.
The pub - which doesn’t take reservations - was packed to the gills. When we walked in, we were told, “We’re not taking any more names for the waiting list.” For a moment, I baulked; all this way and now no food and no review. Then we were told, “There are tables available outside if you like.” So that’s where we went, to a glassed-in smoking area that gave some shelter from the breeze and from where we had a view across the bay. It’s worth taking a moment to analyse the menu here, because it’s clearly very successful. When you have difficulty getting a table mid-week, you know that they’re doing something right.
It’s a simple menu, there are no complicated dishes on it and it’s fairly priced. By that, I mean that there are no extraordinarily cheap deals as you’d find in Dublin right now, but it’s not expensive either. The large prawn and crab-claw plate is €19.90 and so is the large plate of crab claws alone. €25.90 will get you medallions of fillet steak, but, apart from these dishes, the others are between €14 and €19.
Obviously, fish and seafood figure largely on the menu, but there are dishes available for committed carnivores. Marian, who doesn’t have a big appetite, decided on just a main course - the crispy stir-fried duck. I started with the calamari and followed that with a big bowl of mussels, ordering a side of chips so I’d have the classic moules frites.
The wine list is a fairly basic affair, listing some quarter bottles, seven whites and eight reds, mostly well-known brands and all fairly priced - about half of them priced under €20 and the other half under €25.
I got my calamari and they were simply presented and well cooked. They were accompanied by some green leaves which were as nature intended - completely undressed. A perfect example of rabbit food. Really, you shouldn’t serve salad without a dressing, otherwise it’s simply decoration, not food.
Then the mains arrived, both of them generous portions. Marian’s crispy duck wasn’t exactly crispy, but it was very good and well flavoured with chilli, ginger and coriander. It came with noodles and, even though it was all that Marian had ordered, this generous plateful turned out to be too much for her.
It took me a while to finish all the mussels that I was presented with, and I began to think I should have ordered the small plate instead. They were served in a marinière sauce, which was okay, but light on the white wine and shallots and heavy on the cream. Still, a very satisfying dish and the chips were good too.
It was about this time that something extraordinary happened: the bay in front of us suddenly filled with an orange glow of a surprising intensity. The windows of the houses across the bay from us reflected a bright orange light. We got up from the table to investigate and saw one of the most spectacular sunsets I’ve seen, filling the whole bay with its orange light.
But wait - hold on a minute, I thought, we’re on the east coast. How come I’m looking at a sunset over the bay? The sun sets in the west. You’ll need to do what I did and look at a map, to see why Skerries Bay faces north-west.
The crowds had subsided by this stage and the evening breeze had got a little cooler, so we went inside and took a table so Marian could have a cup of tea and I could have an espresso. It gave us a moment to talk through what it was that makes this place so successful. Very fresh, simply prepared seafood has to be a part of it; the very efficient and friendly service, the sea views, the lack of pretension of the menu - all these combine to make Stoop Your Head a successful format.
I did have one complaint: large bottles of water were unavailable, just quarter bottles. That means you end up paying nearly €9 for a litre of water, which is simply insane.
Despite that, I did a double-take when the bill arrived: it was just €57.95 - very good value for what we’d eaten.
The pub - which doesn’t take reservations - was packed to the gills. When we walked in, we were told, “We’re not taking any more names for the waiting list.” For a moment, I baulked; all this way and now no food and no review. Then we were told, “There are tables available outside if you like.” So that’s where we went, to a glassed-in smoking area that gave some shelter from the breeze and from where we had a view across the bay. It’s worth taking a moment to analyse the menu here, because it’s clearly very successful. When you have difficulty getting a table mid-week, you know that they’re doing something right.
It’s a simple menu, there are no complicated dishes on it and it’s fairly priced. By that, I mean that there are no extraordinarily cheap deals as you’d find in Dublin right now, but it’s not expensive either. The large prawn and crab-claw plate is €19.90 and so is the large plate of crab claws alone. €25.90 will get you medallions of fillet steak, but, apart from these dishes, the others are between €14 and €19.
Obviously, fish and seafood figure largely on the menu, but there are dishes available for committed carnivores. Marian, who doesn’t have a big appetite, decided on just a main course - the crispy stir-fried duck. I started with the calamari and followed that with a big bowl of mussels, ordering a side of chips so I’d have the classic moules frites.
The wine list is a fairly basic affair, listing some quarter bottles, seven whites and eight reds, mostly well-known brands and all fairly priced - about half of them priced under €20 and the other half under €25.
I got my calamari and they were simply presented and well cooked. They were accompanied by some green leaves which were as nature intended - completely undressed. A perfect example of rabbit food. Really, you shouldn’t serve salad without a dressing, otherwise it’s simply decoration, not food.
Then the mains arrived, both of them generous portions. Marian’s crispy duck wasn’t exactly crispy, but it was very good and well flavoured with chilli, ginger and coriander. It came with noodles and, even though it was all that Marian had ordered, this generous plateful turned out to be too much for her.
It took me a while to finish all the mussels that I was presented with, and I began to think I should have ordered the small plate instead. They were served in a marinière sauce, which was okay, but light on the white wine and shallots and heavy on the cream. Still, a very satisfying dish and the chips were good too.
It was about this time that something extraordinary happened: the bay in front of us suddenly filled with an orange glow of a surprising intensity. The windows of the houses across the bay from us reflected a bright orange light. We got up from the table to investigate and saw one of the most spectacular sunsets I’ve seen, filling the whole bay with its orange light.
But wait - hold on a minute, I thought, we’re on the east coast. How come I’m looking at a sunset over the bay? The sun sets in the west. You’ll need to do what I did and look at a map, to see why Skerries Bay faces north-west.
The crowds had subsided by this stage and the evening breeze had got a little cooler, so we went inside and took a table so Marian could have a cup of tea and I could have an espresso. It gave us a moment to talk through what it was that makes this place so successful. Very fresh, simply prepared seafood has to be a part of it; the very efficient and friendly service, the sea views, the lack of pretension of the menu - all these combine to make Stoop Your Head a successful format.
I did have one complaint: large bottles of water were unavailable, just quarter bottles. That means you end up paying nearly €9 for a litre of water, which is simply insane.
Despite that, I did a double-take when the bill arrived: it was just €57.95 - very good value for what we’d eaten.
Georgina Campbell’s Ireland / The best of the best
After a quiet off-season drink a few doors along at Joe May’s, there can be no greater pleasure in north Dublin than to slip into ‘Stoops’ for some of Andy Davies’ mainly seafood cooking.
‘Fresh, simple and wholesome’ is how he describes his food, and who could want any more than that? If it’s busy you may have to wait at the little bar - where you can opt to eat if you like, or have a look at the menu while waiting for a table (they seem to turn over fairly fast).
This county Dublin restaurants surroundings are simple - chunky wooden tables, closely packed - and the menu is not elaborate but there is plenty to choose from, and there are blackboard specials every day too; what could be more delightful than starters of dressed crab, or moules marinière - or perhaps a classic fresh prawn Marie Rose, as Dublin Bay prawns (langoustines) are landed in Skerries and a speciality; like the crab claws, they are offered as starters or main courses, in irresistible garlic butter.
Main course favourites include daily specials such as baked Clare Island salmon, seared king scallops and pan fried ray wing; also an excellent version of fish and chips - named ‘fresh cod (or haddock) fritté’ here, a light beer batter is used and, although french fries are most obvious choice, there are actually four potato styles to choose from if chips are not your thing.
There’s a shortish but appropriate wine list to accompany. You don’t have to eat seafood here - there are other choices like Asian spiced warm chicken salad, or pasta dishes or even fillet steak medallions - but it would be a pity to miss it.
Super fresh and deliciously simple, it’s a treat.
‘Fresh, simple and wholesome’ is how he describes his food, and who could want any more than that? If it’s busy you may have to wait at the little bar - where you can opt to eat if you like, or have a look at the menu while waiting for a table (they seem to turn over fairly fast).
This county Dublin restaurants surroundings are simple - chunky wooden tables, closely packed - and the menu is not elaborate but there is plenty to choose from, and there are blackboard specials every day too; what could be more delightful than starters of dressed crab, or moules marinière - or perhaps a classic fresh prawn Marie Rose, as Dublin Bay prawns (langoustines) are landed in Skerries and a speciality; like the crab claws, they are offered as starters or main courses, in irresistible garlic butter.
Main course favourites include daily specials such as baked Clare Island salmon, seared king scallops and pan fried ray wing; also an excellent version of fish and chips - named ‘fresh cod (or haddock) fritté’ here, a light beer batter is used and, although french fries are most obvious choice, there are actually four potato styles to choose from if chips are not your thing.
There’s a shortish but appropriate wine list to accompany. You don’t have to eat seafood here - there are other choices like Asian spiced warm chicken salad, or pasta dishes or even fillet steak medallions - but it would be a pity to miss it.
Super fresh and deliciously simple, it’s a treat.
The Bridgestone / Irish Food Guide
You can’t book a table in SYH, but no one who turns up for Andy Davies’ sharp seafood cooking minds the wait should the place be full, which it frequently is.
Smart locals come back again and again to have Prawns in Garlic Butter, or Cod in Beer Batter, and whilst therte are non fish dishes such as Chilli or Fillet Steak, you would need to have your head examined to pass up on the sort of seafood cooking that seems to restore the soul by virtue of it’s simplicity and sweetly savory goodness.
Smart locals come back again and again to have Prawns in Garlic Butter, or Cod in Beer Batter, and whilst therte are non fish dishes such as Chilli or Fillet Steak, you would need to have your head examined to pass up on the sort of seafood cooking that seems to restore the soul by virtue of it’s simplicity and sweetly savory goodness.
The Dubliner / 100 Best Restaurants
Taller readers will quite literally have to stoop their heads in here, or risk a wallop off the low beam which divides the building. Fear not - your fellow diners will be too busy enjoying Stoops’ famous seafood chowder (6.50) to notice.
This humble gastropub is deservedly busy at weekends - the seats outside with the cracking harbour views are nabbed quickly - but even midweek they pack’ em in. Luckily turnover is speedy, and the kitchen bangs through the orders.
Once you catch sight of the moules mariniéres (€8.90) or the crab claws in garlic butter (€19.90) for a large plate, you’ll be glad you waited. Why aren’t more Dublin restaurants doing fresh, simple seafood like this? Head to Joe Mays for a pint afterwards.
This humble gastropub is deservedly busy at weekends - the seats outside with the cracking harbour views are nabbed quickly - but even midweek they pack’ em in. Luckily turnover is speedy, and the kitchen bangs through the orders.
Once you catch sight of the moules mariniéres (€8.90) or the crab claws in garlic butter (€19.90) for a large plate, you’ll be glad you waited. Why aren’t more Dublin restaurants doing fresh, simple seafood like this? Head to Joe Mays for a pint afterwards.
Skerries News
WHEN we decided to have supper at Stoop Your Head, I got a lovely warm glow. It’s always such a joy walking down to the harbour, peoplewatching, bikewatching, carwatching and anything else that people want you to watch. The feeling stayed with me until about 60 paces from the door. It’s a dread that hits me every time and tonight was no exception. As we walked through the door there was an involuntary grabbing of the sides of tables from their occupiers that said “This is MY table, you’re NOT having it and I’m going to hang on to this dessert for at least another hour and THEN I’ll have a long, slow, coffee!” And if you think the empty table in the corner is up for grabs, think again. It would be morethen your life’s worth to try to get your derriere on that seat. There is, however, a ‘list’ system in Stoops and the pleasant staff will try and give you an indication of how long you are likely to wait and they will usually suggest a drink down the road at cosy Joe May’s where they will call you when your table is ready.
This is no great problem as an extra stroll into another good bar can really add to the evening, if you feel like it. But on this evening, I didn’t, so we parked ourselves at Stoops’ bar where you can also eat on a first come/first served basis. This was more than adequate for us and we chatted for over some cocktails as the waitress gave us menus.
Right from the start, the staff were warm, smiling and helpful. As we started to glance over the menu, another waiter said he had secured a table for us as some people had decided not to wait. This was great news and very thoughtful of him as people were still coming through the door and he could have easily let the table go. And his kindness didn’t stop at that. After five or 10 minutes, he came across to close the window behind me - just as I was only thinking it was getting a little cold. He was maxed out later as the place got busier and busier. I began to watch him now as he elegantly and calmly took control with the skill of a conductor, orchestrating each table to harmonious effect.
At this point our starters arrived and we notice one set of cutlery was missing. Before we even had time to voice it to each another, guess who arrived with the extra silverware? Amazing really. Stoops have started to do a Chef’s Special Menu of two courses for €18.90 or three courses for €22.90 and we’d come this evening to sample one of these. The choice of four starters was really good and a choice of four mains ranging from tagliatelle to rib-eye steak, even Stoops to conquer better.
My dining partner started with the homemade chicken liver paté which came with fresh crusty bread. He had originally picked the seafood chowder but spotted it on the way to another table and simply felt he couldn’t do such a fine dish justice on top of a main course. I chose the soup of the day which was a delicious tomato and basil with more fresh and plentiful bread. The paté was of a perfect consistency - not too creamy or too solid - and the added touch of brandy and herbs gave it an unusual flavour. It disappeared very quickly. My soup was tasty with a good strong taste of basil and it was hot (something which some restaurants seem to struggle with).
Moving on to our main course I chose the Rib Eye and my partner had the Haddock Fritte. And although this was a set menu the portions were not compromised at all - my steak sat on a bed of caramelised onions and mushrooms and the Haddock came with a salad. Chips were ordered with the fish and I went for the baby new potatoes. It was all really wholesome and although very filling in itself (my partner said that Moby Dick was on his plate) I felt I would have liked some form of small green vegetable other then the potatoes. We both agreed on this and actually hesitated a while thinking one might come. Nonetheless, we had plenty to eat - so much so, that I definitely didn’t have room for any of the many puddings on offer, yet my partner decided we should ‘share’ the pavlova.
This never really happens, does it? It didn’t happen this time either as a large helping came adorned with strawberries and cream. I managed to negotiate (I’d forfeit the chocolate mint at the end) and secure myself a small helping. I can only say that the famous ballerina Anna would have been more then impressed with her namesake dish. It was a lovely evening and the place had a relaxed and easybuzz about it. And no, we didn’t hang on to that pavlova to the grim death - or order lingering coffee. We could see our table was needed and knew the feeling of being on the other side .....
This is no great problem as an extra stroll into another good bar can really add to the evening, if you feel like it. But on this evening, I didn’t, so we parked ourselves at Stoops’ bar where you can also eat on a first come/first served basis. This was more than adequate for us and we chatted for over some cocktails as the waitress gave us menus.
Right from the start, the staff were warm, smiling and helpful. As we started to glance over the menu, another waiter said he had secured a table for us as some people had decided not to wait. This was great news and very thoughtful of him as people were still coming through the door and he could have easily let the table go. And his kindness didn’t stop at that. After five or 10 minutes, he came across to close the window behind me - just as I was only thinking it was getting a little cold. He was maxed out later as the place got busier and busier. I began to watch him now as he elegantly and calmly took control with the skill of a conductor, orchestrating each table to harmonious effect.
At this point our starters arrived and we notice one set of cutlery was missing. Before we even had time to voice it to each another, guess who arrived with the extra silverware? Amazing really. Stoops have started to do a Chef’s Special Menu of two courses for €18.90 or three courses for €22.90 and we’d come this evening to sample one of these. The choice of four starters was really good and a choice of four mains ranging from tagliatelle to rib-eye steak, even Stoops to conquer better.
My dining partner started with the homemade chicken liver paté which came with fresh crusty bread. He had originally picked the seafood chowder but spotted it on the way to another table and simply felt he couldn’t do such a fine dish justice on top of a main course. I chose the soup of the day which was a delicious tomato and basil with more fresh and plentiful bread. The paté was of a perfect consistency - not too creamy or too solid - and the added touch of brandy and herbs gave it an unusual flavour. It disappeared very quickly. My soup was tasty with a good strong taste of basil and it was hot (something which some restaurants seem to struggle with).
Moving on to our main course I chose the Rib Eye and my partner had the Haddock Fritte. And although this was a set menu the portions were not compromised at all - my steak sat on a bed of caramelised onions and mushrooms and the Haddock came with a salad. Chips were ordered with the fish and I went for the baby new potatoes. It was all really wholesome and although very filling in itself (my partner said that Moby Dick was on his plate) I felt I would have liked some form of small green vegetable other then the potatoes. We both agreed on this and actually hesitated a while thinking one might come. Nonetheless, we had plenty to eat - so much so, that I definitely didn’t have room for any of the many puddings on offer, yet my partner decided we should ‘share’ the pavlova.
This never really happens, does it? It didn’t happen this time either as a large helping came adorned with strawberries and cream. I managed to negotiate (I’d forfeit the chocolate mint at the end) and secure myself a small helping. I can only say that the famous ballerina Anna would have been more then impressed with her namesake dish. It was a lovely evening and the place had a relaxed and easybuzz about it. And no, we didn’t hang on to that pavlova to the grim death - or order lingering coffee. We could see our table was needed and knew the feeling of being on the other side .....